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Story
of Bali, Indonesia
Suryani
grew up as a member of the lowest caste in the regions
of both north and south Bali and married a man of the
Ksatria caste from the last ruling family of Klungkung
(in south Bali) and lived in that royal family household
for some time. Suryani made in-depth studies of villages
in north and south Bali. These experiences gave her
an intimate knowledge of these areas- and castes.
Of the eight former kingdoms on the small island of
Bali, the members of the royal family of Klungkung were
universally regarded as having paramount status. Even
today the ordinary citizens of Klungkung are still very
respectful towards the members of the palace (pun).
When the last king of Klungkung died in 1965, all Klungkung
males, both those residing in Klungkung and those outside
the district, spontaneously shaved their heads in mourning.
This gesture of respect has, in large measure, been
based on the belief in the extraordinary powers of the
royal family.
Thus,
when confronted with a natural disaster or an epidemic
the people have always expected the members of the puri
to visit the area affected and to be able to intervene
with the gods for the alleviation of the catastrophe.
For the same reason, all the adult members of this puri
are still addressed as Dewa Agung or Dewa Agung Isteri
(your highness, lord/lady, but literally 'an elevated
godly being) and the children are called Cokor Dewa
in-the case of boys and Cokorda Isteri in the case of
girls.
In April 1989, a group of 20 Balinese and foreign scholars
convened in Denpasar to receive and discuss the results
of the author's studies. The dialogue between the Balinese
and foreign discussants with regard to the ways Balinese
handle aggression, arguments, and conflicts illustrated
cultural gulf: the Balinese did not respond directly
to repeated questions by Westerners about how Balinese
experience and resolve conflict.
Each
year in March, the Balinese celebrate a period of several
days referred to as the New Year celebration, which
culminates in Nyepi, a day of silence. Nyepi is a day
when people stay in their homes, cars are not allowed
on the streets, no electric lights are used, and there
is very little noise except for roosters crowing in
the morning and frogs croaking at night. However, in
the afternoon of this day, the children gather on the
deserted main streets and play, as if to exercise the
rare' privilege of being free to go where ordinarily
cars, trucks, motor bikes, and buses are busily traveling.
On the day or two preceding Nyepi, adolescent boys in
the city set off firecrackers and sometimes home-made
bamboo canons which make enormous booms at unpredictable
intervals to chase away evil spirits. Women will start
cooking for Nyepi on the day before because no cooking
can be done on Nyepi.
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