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Story
of Bali, Indonesia
Sumatra
is Ultima Thule in these Indies. North Sumatra, where
you're going, is the western extremity of the Indonesian
archipelago. It is big, though. Sumatra: not an-isl2nd
like Ball that you might have difficulty finding on
the map. From the eastern end you are over very soon
after leaving Djakarta to Medan where you arc going,
is about a thousand miles. Sumatra is almost the size
of Spain. It would make three and a, half javas-and
has only a quarter of Java's population. Much of Sumatra
is jungled mountains, which run the length on the Indian
Ocean (pardon, Indonesian Ocean since Sukarno) side
of this long I island that might be said to look on
the map like a stumpy-tailed, pregnant crocodile.Most
of the ceremonial death dances are found in South and
Central Sulawesi. The most important among their are
Ma'badong Dance, the Mamarakka Dance, the Padondan Dance,
the Ma'randing Dance and the Magellu' Dance.
THE
MA'BADONG DANCE. This is danced by men who sing while
they dance. It is performed when a member of the family
dies and the purpose is to make the soul feel at home
in the world of the souls.
THE
MA'MARAKKA DANCE. It is danced by girls and young men
who sing while they dance. It is performed when a member
of the family dies.
Sumatra
is beginning to move ~ out' of the Maugham-type novel
the oil-industry handbook the rubber- and timber getters'
gazetteer and into the tourist guide-book. As yet in
the Golden Guide to South & East Asia Sumatra gets
only one page out of 500 pages. Its main tourist attractions
are Lake Toba and the Batak people's remarkable houses
in North Sumatra.
This plane appears to have only two other European passengers.
They don't look like, tourists. They arc white-shirt
types who could be Goodyear Rubber accountants going
out to do an audit at the Deli plantation. Next to me
is the most aromatic Indian lady. The flowers she carries
are tropically fragrant. and she laves her arms with
a heavily sweet-scented pomade. Tobacco fumes and the
faint smell of the proffered airline coffee fight back
unavailingly. Night reddens into day and overcast obscures
the geography of Sumatra until we come down through
grey nothingness of cloud to the sight of a tape-. worm
river eating its way through sodden, palm-studded green
that now has the geometry of the airport of Medan (pronounced
Maydan).
THE
MASSALLO' DANCE. ' This also a death-dance and is danced
by young men and women who while dancing play with handkerchief
they carry in their hands.
THE
PA'DONDAN DANCE. This is a rather cheerful death-dance
which is held after the family of the deceased have
slaughtered buffaloes as offerings. The dancers are
girls and young men who clap their hands while dancing.
THE
MA'RANDING DANCE. The word maranding comes from the
word randing meaning to glorify while dancing. This
dance is held to praise the courage and strength of
the ' deceased when still alive. It is danced by several
men, each carrying large shield and
sword. This ceremonial dance is also a war-dance because
each dancer shows his skill in handling the weapons.
The Maranding dance is danced at the ceremony held when
the coffin is carried to the cave in the mountain rock.
The dancers also accompany the corpse to his permanent
resting place.
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