One could make do somehow by making the strips of material thinner and narrower; but although fine plaited work can be very pliant, it nevertheless has its limits. Furthermore, plaiting is done by hand, and the finer the single strands used, the more difficult it becomes to keep them apart with one's bare hands. The need thus arises for some mechanical appliance, i.e. for a loom

Fortunately there was to be found ill Indonesia the cotton-plant with its downy fibrous substance, the very thing needed to obtain in a simple way, viz. by means of a spindle, a thread, of any desired 1cngth and of almost perfect pliability.

Only if these prerequisites are met is it possible to produce a good-quality fabric. One must therefore make a digression, and examine the technique used in weaving.

The most simple fabric consists of numerous threads of a certain length running parallel, termed warp, crossed at right angles by another floating thread, the weft, which holds it together. The warp threads are made fast to the loom. In order to interweave the weft thread by means of a spool (or shuttle), a device is necessary to raise every second thread of the warp at the same time. Having raised the odd-numbered threads, - 1, 3, 5, etc., - and passed through the shuttle containing the weft thread, one then raises the other threads - i.e., 2, 4, 6, etc., - and allows the shuttle to slide back, and so on alternately.

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