Sometimes the coloured welt thread is passed through tile warp threads by means of a long spool carrier. The weaver must then take special care to pick out the warp threads which have to pass over the coloured threads. The fabrics obtained in this way - for instance those woven by the Than Dayaks are called kain-,pilih (kain = cloth, pilih = to choose).

The foregoing merely gives an idea of the basic principles of the technique. There are, of course, still other methods of introducing a pattern, but these can be disregarded here.

In the last chapter it was pointed out that there is a striking resemblance between the patterns customary upon the fabrics woven in Galumpang in central Celebes and those on certain textiles produced by the Than Dayaks.

But these two fabrics differ greatly in the methods of manufacture. The Than Dayaks employ the pilih technique just described, whilst the Galumpang fabrics are woven by the so-called ikat method (ikat = to bind).

By this method the thread is dyed according to a special process before the weaving begins. For this put-pose fibres are wound around small groups of threads at certain places, so that the tightly bound parts do not take up the collared when the fabric is dipped into the dye-bath. A single coloured thread would lot show, and it would be much too troublesome to wind fibre round each thread separately.

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