A
Sacred Space for God and Man
Above
all, the Balinese temple is a sacred space in which the
deities are honored with rituals and offerings. Whether
a simple enclosure with only one or two tiny shrines,
or an elaborate complex with scores of sacred structures,
the basic function of each temple is the same - to serve
as a site where the Balinese pay reverence to the spiritual
powers that play such a large role in their lives.
Temple
types
There
are literally tens of thousands of temples in Bali, and
new ones are being constructed all the time. Throughout
much of the year they lie eerily deserted, but on the
date of their anniversary festival they come to life in
a brief but glorious burst of activity, as the congregation
adorns the temple with beautiful ornaments and arrives
bearing elaborate gifts, dressed in their finest apparel.
We
just have one word for temple, but the Balinese distinguish
two important types. A sanggah (merajan in the refined
language) refers to private or family temples, generally
translated as "house temples." Each family compound
has one, containing shrines to the family's deified ancestors
(sanggah kamulan). Thus there are several hundred thousand
house temples in Bali.
The
other word for temple in Balinese is Pura, originally
a Sanskrit term referring to town or palace. In Bali,
the word Pura ha come to refer to a temple in the public
d main, generally located on public land. These cannot
always be neatly classified, but there are generally three
types associated with the three most important foci of
social organization on Bali - locale, irrigation cooperative
(subak) and descent group.
Within
the group based on locality are temples of the local village,
as well as temple of greater regional and island-wide
significance. Irrigation cooperative temples ca belong
to a single subak or to a whole group of subaks. And within
the group of temple based on descent are temples supported
"clans" of greater or lesser degrees of ancestral
depth, variously known as Pura dadi Pura kawitan and Pura
padharman. Altogether there are at least 10,000 temples
on B belonging to these various types.
Three
village temples of special significance are the kahyangan
tiga ("three sanctuaries") the Pura Puseh ("temple
of origin"), at the upper end of the village, the
Pura desa ("village temple") or Pura bale agung
("great meeting hall temple") in the village
center, and the Pura dalem (death temple or "temple
of the mighty one") lying near the cemeter and cremation
grounds at the lower or seaward end of the village. These
temples are linked with the gods of the Hindu Trinity:
the Pura Puseh with Brahma the Creator, the Pura desa
with Vishnu the Preserver, and the Pura dalem with Siwa
the Destroyer.
The
famous temple sites that tourists visit are regional or
island-wide temples. These include the "Mother Temple"
of Besakih, high up on the slopes of Mt. Agung, as well
as the major temples of Ulun Danu (Batur), Lempuyang,
Gua Lawah, Ulu Watu, Batukau, Pusering Jagat (Pejeng),
Andakasa and Pucak Mangu. These are nearly all mountain
or sea temples, marking the primary poles of the sacred
landscape in Bali.
Lesser
regional temples, numbering in the hundreds, are sometimes
called Pura dang kahyangan or "temples of the Sacred
Ones" because they are associated with legendary
Priests who brought Hinduism to Bali from Java. Their
supporting congregations are drawn from a wide area, and
in the past such temples were often supported by local
Princely houses. Nowadays regional governments have taken
on the same role. Important regional temples include Pura
Sakenan, Pura Tanah Lot, Pura Kehen, Pura Taman Ayun and
many others.
Shrines
and pavilions
A
temple may contain just one or two shrines within a small
courtyard, or it may contain dozens of shrines and other
structures within two, or often three courtyards.
The
innermost courtyard is the most sacred. Shrines are usually
located here in two rows - one lining the mountain (kaja)
side and the other lining the eastern (kangin) side. Toward
the center of the courtyard is a large structure where
the gods gather during rituals. Open pavilions for various
purposes complete the arrangement.
Among
the shrines lining the mountain ward side one often finds
a pair of small closed shrines (gedong) - one with an
earthenware dish on its roof, the other with a pointed
roof. These honor protective deities of the greatest importance:
Dewi Sri, goddess of rice and prosperity, and her consort
Rambut Sedana, god of wealth. A small shrine with a deer's
head is called menjangan saluwang and honors the legendary
priest Mpu Kuturan, or a deity called Bhatara Maospahit.
A
particularly striking structure is the meru or Balinese
pagoda, which has an odd number of roofs, up to a maximum
of eleven. A meru honors a god or a deified ancestor,
depending on what kind of temple it is. It was probably
introduced from Java during the 14th century.
In
the mountain ward-eastward corner, between the rows of
shrines, there is often an open seat-type shrine. In its
fully developed form, adorned with cosmic turtle and serpents,
this is called a padmasana ("lotus throne")
and honors the high god Sanghyang Widhi in his manifestation
as Siwa Raditya, the sun god. Modern Balinese Hinduism
stresses its monotheistic aspect, and the padmasana has
recently become more prominent.
Temple
festivals are held according to one of two calendrical
systems. When it appears on the 210-day wuku calendar,
a festival is called an odalan; when it follows the lunar
calendar, it is often referred to as an usaba. Various
factors, such as local tradition and the size of the ritual,
determine whether a festival is officiated by the temple's
own priest (Pemangku) or by a brahmana high priest (Pedanda).